Notre Dame

I’ve been behind on posting, but for a good reason: I was in Paris last week as part of a small group without a minute to spare for writing. I had never been to Paris in April, and it truly is a nice time to go. The city was finally putting its unusually cold winter behind and welcoming warm breezes and blossoming trees. On the days with temps that climbed into the 70s, Parisians spilled out into the streets bien soginé with renewed energy. It was fun to take it all in.

On Day 1, after a long flight, a leisurely lunch was in order followed by a simple agenda: strolling the city’s two islands, Île St-Louis and Île de la Cité. The fabulous cheese shop on Île St-Louis was a highlight.

Cheeses on Île St-Louis

Heading back to our hotel, a group of school kids decked out in costumes caught everyone’s attention.

School kids in costume

L'Avant Comptoir

We capped the night at the super-popular but tiny L’Avant Comptoir wine bar that holds all of about 12 people. We drank artisanal red wine and nibbled on small plates of smooth brandade, ham croquettes, beef-cheek croque monsieur, riz de langue oiseau, and pâté de campagne. L’Avant Comptoir also has an excellent selection of charcuterie. Maybe the best part of our tastings was the great, crusty petits pains served hot from the oven in big baskets. I spotted a few being tucked into pockets to take back to the hotel. 

Fresh rolls at L'Avant Comptoir

[ 0 comments ]

Writer-pastry chef David Lebovitz signing his books

It’s nice to meet a writer in person whose work you admire and read. So late this afternoon I was thrilled to meet David Lebovitz, downtown at Hotel Allegro, the writer behind his wildly popular blog davidlebovitz.com about “the sweet life” in Paris and author of several books on dessert. He is also author of The Sweet Life in Paris that recounts his move from pastry chef at Chez Panisse to living in Paris, which I brought from home to have him sign. In an ironic twist of fate, here I’m having a brief chat with David about what he likes about Chicago (loves the Apple store, Garrett’s popcorn, and the friendliness of Chicagoans), while in a short amount of time I will be in Paris trying out many of David’s bonnes addresses at the back of the book and from his blog. It is a small world.

Ready for Dessert book

In a not very organized fashion, I then wandered off to look at David’s other books for sale, including Ready for Dessert, My Best Recipes. With his two earlier books (Room for Dessert and Ripe for Dessert) now out of print, Ready for Dessert presents updated versions of many of those recipes with some new ones added in.

Savor more …

[ 0 comments ]

Rootstock's mushroom tart with poached quail egg

Chicagoans have had enough of winter. Even though March has hit it’s hardly been the weather to stroll through the park or ride your bike. In fact, the past week was one to throw on a scarf, turn up your collar, and find a cozy place for a glass of wine. So last Wednesday when one friend had to cancel dinner plans but another called with an invitation to go to Rootstock, I was asking “what time?” before my boots were zipped.

Votive in a jar

Rootstock opened over a year ago by three ambitious partners, all former employees of Webster Wine Bar. Their small wine bar in Humboldt Park has a simple but sophisticated sensibility of neutral tones with a mix of small tables and big, dark wood communal ones combined with all kinds of chairs. The walls are absent glaring TV monitors and instead feature works by local artists that change periodically. And I love the clever touches like placing glowing votives atop jars filled with corks in the front windows. 
 
But, of course, it’s the youthful trio’s savvy wine list, more than 30 kinds of beer, and impressive menu that is Rootstock’s biggest draw. They are also devoted to using seasonal, local produce, and hormone-free meats. After the departure of Rootstock’s first chef, the quality and creativity of what comes out of the kitchen hasn’t missed a beat. Executive chef Duncan Biddulph does an excellent job of offering up small plates with big flavors. He delivers bar plates the likes of whitefish brandade with chili and olive oil and a gussied up version of chicken wings from Gunthorp Farm, smoked and fried, with ham and celeriac remoulade. My friend and I had the fabulous hedgehog mushroom tart with fresh ricotta, dandelion greens, leek ash, all topped with a poached quail egg, pictured at the top of this post. We enjoyed a refreshing Spanish cava with it.

Savor more …

[ 0 comments ]

My biweekly Snug Haven Farm spinach delivery

With so many great supermarkets and food shops in Chicago I never imagined getting produce through the mail, but every two weeks during the cold months this box arrives by US Priority Mail from Snug Haven Farm in Belleville, Wisconsin, located in the south-central part of the state. It contains a 1-pound bag of the best spinach I’ve tasted. It’s sweet and toothsome when sautéed. A huge bonus is that the spinach comes cut, washed, and ready to eat.

I came across Snug Haven’s spinach about four years ago at the indoor Green City Market, which starts in November of every year, and liked it—a lot. This spinach only becomes available in late fall because proprietors Bill Warner and Judy Hageman grow their spinach during the winter months in giant hoop houses. By using a process of letting the spinach freeze and thaw, they bring out the best in its taste. The more the spinach freezes and thaws, the higher the sugar content. Also, in the winter months, spinach grows slower and thus sweeter and thicker than summer varieties.

Freshly washed and cut spinach

During November and December at the indoor Green City Market at the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, Bill Warner eagerly proffers leaves of his “frost-sweetened” winter spinach for prospective customers to taste. But if raw spinach in the morning doesn’t appeal to you (I have scones or croissants on my mind at that hour), try a $5 bag to sample later at home. The first time I came across Snug Haven’s spinach at the market I was taken aback by the (now) $11 per pound price, even though I recognize that small-scale farming has higher costs. I nevertheless bought a bag to try, but didn’t think I would pay that much for spinach in the future. But four years later, I am. The spinach is just that outstanding, and to me, worth the extravagance.

Savor more …

[ 0 comments ]

Vie

27 February 2011 · 0 comments

Dietzler Farm beef combination dish at Vie

With so many restaurants in Chicago there’s little reason to leave the city to dine elsewhere. One exception, however, is Vie, chef Paul Virant’s sleek standout in Western Springs that has become a destination for exceptional dining and whose cuisine was awarded a prestigious Michelin star last November. More than six years after its opening, the occasion that finally brought me, my two sisters, and father to Vie was the celebration of my mother’s 75th birthday. By chance our plans fell during Chicago Restaurant Week, now in its fourth year, which happily gave us a win-win opportunity to try a number of dishes at an affordable price through the prix-fixe, four-course menu for $44. 

It being Restaurant Week as well as a Saturday night, Vie was buzzing—exactly what restaurants and customers welcome in the middle of dreary February in Chicago when there isn’t much incentive to venture out. But I can tell you Vie is worth the trip, and my first impressions were a welcome surprise. A far cry from many suburban restaurants, Vie’s interior combines elegance in its blue-gray tones with contemporary styling, but steers clear from being stuffy or aloof. It’s easy to leave your daily life at the door, for here you step into another world.

Having honed his skills at some of Chicago’s top restaurants including Charlie Trotter’s, Ambria, Everest, and Blackbird, Virant deftly turns seasonal ingredients from local farmers and artisans into exceptionally composed dishes. It was an awesome evening to sit back, relax, and let dinner unfold on auto-pilot as well-trained wait staff expertly paced the meal.

Herb gnocchi with mushrooms

For this particular evening’s menu my first course selection was a plate of crispy herb Parisienne gnocchi with parsnips and mushrooms showered with Prairie Fruits Farm Kaskaskia cheese and settled in a wonderful sauce. Others at the table gave the other appetizer, seared diver sea scallops with sunchoke purée, smoked apple butter, and fried sunchokes, high marks. (Unfortunately, I forgot to snap of photo of that dish.) When I return to Vie, I might well make a meal of a few appetizers alone for the way Virant ever so creatively combines mundane and unusual ingredients.

Savor more …

[ 0 comments ]

The Cubano at Cafecito

20 February 2011 · 0 comments

The Cubano sandwich at Cafecito

It’s always a nice idea to grab dinner before a show. But in reality fitting a proper meal in what usually is a short amount of time tends to be a scramble, especially when doing so after work and on a week night. So when another couple and I decided on meeting at Cafecito near the Auditorium Theatre before the opening night of the Joffrey Ballet’s Merry Widow, we thought we had nailed down a good plan. This Cuban café is conveniently located one block west of the theatre, purportedly serves the city’s best Cubano sandwich, and is a simple ordeal of ordering at the counter and finding a seat to eat.

But even the best-laid plans can go awry. On the day of the performance, my friend unfortunately got sick, and both she and her husband had to cancel. With my curiosity piqued about trying a Cubano, I decided to forge ahead with original plans and dine solo. Situated on the east end the contemporary, street-level Hostelling International Chicago building at the corner of Congress and Wabash, Cafecito sports ‘50s-ish seating along with a dash of Cuban décor and great Latin music. A steady stream of travelers from the hostel next door and Columbia’s South Loop campus gives the place a young vibe.

Just about every food publication in Chicago has given Cafecito’s Cubano sandwich rave reviews. This visit being my first taste of a Cubano, I didn’t have any comparison to others around the city, but I found it to be very good. I like sandwiches with a mix of flavors, and the Cubano delivers on that count. Cafecito’s Cubano combines a hearty amount of high-quality Virginia ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, sliced dill pickles, and yellow mustard between two well-toasted and pressed slices of Chicago’s Gonnella French bread. Every sandwich is made to order, and is delivered hot, oozy, and well wrapped in white butcher paper. The essence of this sandwich’s success lies in the restaurant’s secret mojo marinade (includes citrus, garlic, cumin) for the pork shoulder that is roasted in house. Several housemade side salads are offered, and the marinated artichoke and red pepper salad was a simpatico match to the Cubano.

Savor more …

[ 0 comments ]

Flour Cake and Pastry's confection display

For me, Valentine’s Day without chocolate is inconceivable. So, yesterday, instead of shopping at one of my usual chocolate shops, I decided to visit the special, two-day Valentine’s pastry market at the Logan Square Kitchen, held both Saturday and Sunday, featuring local Chicago, small-batch artisans. Lacking the capital needed to build a commercial kitchen, many food entrepreneurs get their start by renting time at a shared-use kitchen, such as the three-year-old Logan Square Kitchen. These are small businesses that operate mostly through their online presence, at local markets, directly to hotels and restaurants, and through other retailers. Over time, they branch out on their own.

Tinycake's Valentine's display

After parking my car and navigating around huge piles of old, melting snow, it was a nice welcome to walk into LSK where Valentine’s Day cheeriness reigned. No shortage of red or chocolate here. More than dozen vendors were selling their goods. Most of the selections were pastry and chocolate, but there was some savory, too. The long, narrow space was crowded, and between that and juggling a shopping bag, purse, and camera, I wasn’t able to snap a ton of photos, but I did catch a few highlights and brought home plenty of sweets.

Fritz Pastry ricotta beignets

At one end of the long, narrow space, I couldn’t pass up the ricotta beignets from Fritz Pastry served with Rare Bird passion fruit preserve. They were as good as they look in the photo at left. I strolled past the freshly brewing Ipsento Coffee and beautiful line of Rare Bird jams to search for my chocolate requirement. A taste of Nice Cream’s luxurious Spicy Chocolate ice cream lived up to its name, sending an intense salvo of cinnamon and cayenne.

Assorted sweets

But for something easier to take home, I opted for a selection of treats, shown in the picture at left. From the top, clockwise: Flour Cake and Pastry’s blueberry crumble, Tinycakes’s chocolate chip brownies, a dark chocolate caramel and hazelnut mini tart from Celestial KitchensMayana Chocolate’s spin on the Twix bar, and in the center, Celestial’s heart pastry filled with raspberries.

The shopping was fun, especially with being able to meet the people behind their products. Lots of passion and love was definitely in the air.

Logan Square Kitchen
2333 North Milwaukee Avenue
Chicago, IL 60647
Tel 773.342.2333
www.logansquarekitchen.com

[ 0 comments ]

Square Frigoverre food storage containers

Ever wonder why food storage containers are usually round when refrigerators are square? So do I.

I have a thing for good containers. I’m always on the lookout for design that is functional and unfussy. And for me, plastic won’t do. The vessels of my choice need to be glass. So when I saw these square, glass containers by Italian maker Frigoverre at Williams-Sonoma, I knew my design wish had come true. It was like finding suntan lotion in Antarctica. 

What I like about this product is that the glass is thick and the lids are easy to snap on and off. In my excitement simply to find square-shaped containers, it was a revelation to me after I got home to learn that the containers can go into the freezer. At room temperature, they can go into the microwave (without the lid). And they are dishwasher safe. Like any glass, do not transfer them from one extreme temperature quickly to another. 

Wedded to round? Relax. Frigoverre containers also come in a round version. Both shapes are also available at Crate & Barrel, and a set of three at either store runs $19.95.

[ 2 comments ]

Prairie Fire's Untraditional Shepherd's Pie

I have a long-running list of food shops and restaurants that I want to try, and one restaurant on that list is Prairie Fire, with co-chefs Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris, who focus on quality and local ingredients in more casual preparations than in their Ritz-Carlton of Chicago days. So when Slow Food Chicago put out an e-mail about a Sunday brunch event there, I decided it was a good occasion to go. What I didn’t realize (because I read the e-mail very fast) was that cookbook author Deborah Krasner would also be speaking about her newest—and beautiful—book, Good Meat.  

As you can guess, good meat was the theme of the menu developed by Stegner, who joined our one big communal table of nearly 20 at the beginning of our meal to talk about, what else—meat. As we munched on warm bacon-leek scones (Tom Mueller, Maple Creek Farm) with sides of whipped butter and homemade local apple butter, Stegner explained that getting good meat for Prairie Fire has been a process of learning and experimenting, with the final deciding factor going to taste. In the end, meat must always taste good. And at Prairie Fire, it does.  

Fortunately for Stegner, who reached out to Bill Kurtis in the early years of his Tallgrass Beef operation, grass-fed beef is the restaurant’s meat of choice in the Untraditional Shepherd’s Pie, shown above, and now the number-one selling dish. On this gray and icy snowy day in Chicago, the pie, made with chunks of juicy beef, rainbow swiss chard, butternut squash, topped with potato and parsnip purée, was right on.  

Homemade chorizo atop creamy polenta

As we were breaking into the beautifully browned tops of the shepherd’s pies, two other dishes were brought out. One was the Homemade Chorizo (Tom Mueller, Maple Creek Farm) crumbled over an impossibly smooth polenta (Three Sister’s Garden). The polenta is the perfect soothing blanket for the spicy chorizo that Stegner makes with just the right amount of kick.   

Homemade Mint Creek Farm lamb sausage

Lamb from Harry Carr’s Mint Creek Farm was the source for the third and final main dish, homemade sausage served on top of a warm lentil and winter vegetable salad. The sausage was lean and tasty. People at the table raved about it, and I don’t think I saw any leftovers.  

Satisfied with just enough meat, thankfully dessert was not more of it (think bacon-flavored ice cream). Instead, we finished with a simple but soul-warming blueberry crumble (Seedling Fruit) with homemade vanilla ice cream.  

Good Meat by Deborah Krasner

I was fortunate to have sat next to James Beard award-winning author Deborah Krasner, who I learned spent three years writing Good Meat, The Complete Guide to Sourcing and Cooking Sustainable Meat. This book—her seventh—was actually 10 years in the making, and packs a wealth of knowledge in this nearly 400-page tome. As Krasner told the entire group, the book came about as a result of buying more and more grass-fed and pastured meat from her farmers’ market, and over time time she economized by buying quarter, halves or whole animals. She found the meats to be tastier and healthier (her husband’s LDL count dropped 40 points in one year), but the cuts required a different way of cooking, and hence, the idea for a cookbook was born.  

Savor more …

[ 0 comments ]

Breakfast cereal made with quinoa, golden raisins, dried blueberries, yogurt, and honey

The new year is the start of a new season of eating. One meal that many say is the most important often gets the least attention, and that is breakfast. Sure, we’ve all greeted the morning with a luxurious egg dish, fancy French toast, or stack of fluffy pancakes. But who among us can eat that way every day? Most days, my breakfast boils down to a bowlful of nutty McCann’s steel-cut Irish oatmeal with my favorite toppings of currants and cinnamon. But week after week of the same can leave even the most ardent health nut wanting to change things up. 

So I’ve devised or discovered other cereal-like breakfast options that meet my criteria of being healthy, satisfying, and fast. The recipes start with simple “base” of grains or yogurt, and from there you can make them your own by adding any combination of fruits, nuts, and sweeteners. Fruits can be dried or fresh. Nuts can be raw or toasted. Have fun playing with the ingredients and give yourself a few tries to create something to your liking. 

What’s more, each of these recipes is super easy to make and can be made in advance.  I like to prepare my quinoa or muesli on Sunday evenings to have ready for the week ahead. And because these breakfast options keep well refrigerated for days or all week long, they meet my criteria of being fast to assemble in the morning. Start with a scoop of your cereal or yogurt, add your mix-ins, and your breakfast is ready to go—whether you eat at home or tote it to the office. 

Most of all these breakfast options will kick start your day—and hopefully the rest of your year—by bringing fiber, fruit, and nuts into your diet in a way that tastes good and makes healthy eating easy. 

Breakfast Quinoa
Makes about 3 cups  
My first taste of quinoa as a breakfast was served cold, but this recipe can be served hot or cold. When refrigerated the quinoa mixture will become crumbly; add yogurt to make creamier.  

1 cup quinoa, rinsed
2 cups whole or low-fat milk
3 tablespoons honey, plus more when serving or to taste
½ cup golden raisins
½ cup slivered almonds 

Optional additions:
Dried blueberries
(or chopped dried apricots, cherries, or figs)
Greek yogurt 

1. Bring milk to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add quinoa, and let it come back up to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the milk has been absorbed, about 15 minutes. 

2. Turn off heat. Keep on stovetop. Add honey, raisins, almonds, and other dried fruit if desired, and cover with lid. Let sit for 5 minutes. 

3. Can be served hot immediately or let cool and refrigerate overnight in a glass container, covered. When serving the next morning, add Greek yogurt to a desired consistency, additional honey to taste, and any fresh fruit if desired. Brown sugar or maple syrup can be substituted for the honey. 

Muesli with sliced bananas

Musesli 

Makes about 2 cups
(Can be doubled)

Originally developed by Swiss physician Maximilian Bircher-Benner around 1900 for his patients, Birchermüesli, or more simply, muesli, remains a popular breakfast cereal in Europe.
                                                                    
1½ cups quick-cooking oats (not instant or old-fashioned)
1¼ cups whole or low-fat milk
1 tablespoon honey
¼ dark raisins or currants
½ cup slivered almonds 

Optional ingredients:
Sliced fresh fruit, such as bananas, or dried fruit
Greek yogurt
Substitute other chopped nuts
Ground flax seeds
Cinnamon 

1. Put oatmeal flakes in a large glass container. Add milk, honey, raisins, and almonds. Stir gently to mix and soak overnight in the refrigerator, covered. 

2. The next morning, the oatmeal will have absorbed the milk. Add fresh fruit, such as bananas, blueberries, or raspberries, and any other optional add-ins to your liking. If planning to eat muesli for more than the next day, add optional ingredients to individual servings. 

Magical Breakfast Cream
1 Serving
This recipe is from Mireille Guiliano’s “The French Women Don’t Get Fat Cookbook.” It really isn’t made with cream, but instead relies on yogurt, which gives this creation a creamy texture. Guiliano encourages you to vary the ingredients to your liking. My version below stays close to the original recipe, except that I use a different dry cereal. The flaxseed oil can be purchased at health food stores, and is a good source of omega-3 fatty acid. 

4 to 6 tablespoons yogurt, about ½ cup
1 teaspoon flaxseed oil
1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice (preferably Meyer or organic)
1 teaspoon honey
2 tablespoons finely ground cereal (with zero sugar, such as Post Shredded Wheat, or my preference is Nature’s Path Organic Flax Plus Multibran cereal)
2 teaspoons finely ground walnuts 

Put the yogurt in a bowl and add the flaxseed oil. Mix well. (Note: You will not taste the oil in the end.) 

Add the lemon juice and mix well. 

Add the honey and mix well. 

It is important to add each ingredient one at a time and mix well to obtain a homogeneous preparation. 

In a food processor, finely grind the cereal and walnuts, separately. Add to the yogurt mixture and mix well. Eat at once. 

Time Saver: Do a week’s worth of grinding the cereal and walnuts and keep them refrigerated so in the morning it will take just a few minutes to mix. 

Guiliano notes that when she uses 2 tablespoons of Post Shredded Wheat Original made from whole-grain wheat per serving, it adds a “health-friendly” mix of 0 grams of sugar, 0 grams of sodium, and 6 grams of fiber per cup. 

Adapted from “The French Women Don’t Get Fat Cookbook,” by Mireille Guiliano, Atria Books, copyright 2010. 

[ 4 comments ]